Like all multi-cylinders engine, we have to synchronise intake bodies or carburetors. My old good mercury colomn could have done the job well, but when mercury gets older (it oxidizes) and make bubbles inside colomns, thing that altering reading in the setting. Mercury is forbidden since many years and it's really hard to get some for for an individual, so i opt for the new colomn generation with blue liquid inside. They are more boring to use because we need to be calibrated each time before use them contrary to old system.

In my process of improvement, I always try to find out why the motorcycle starts badly at cold.
- I've changed the wax unit => nothing better
- I've reseted ECU fault codes => nothing better
- I've made a synchro => nothing better
- I've changed the spark plugs => nothing better
- I've retighten exhaust nuts => nothing better
- I've tested the air box sensor which was good => nothing better
- I've changed the fuel pressure regulator => nothing better
- I've tested water engine probe => RAS
- I've tested engine cleaner (fuel adder) for injectors (wtihout any conviction) => guess what, nothing better
- I've deleted AIR system => nothing better

In short i dry a bit ... (i'm not sure this expression mean something in english, sorry)

  I'm 187cm tall and the stock screen is almost at the good size. But my arms and my back need to be straight not to suffer the turbulence in helmet. But no body drive like that, it's tiresome on long trips. So i decided to try something else. After good searches and reflexion, my choice ended on PUIG smoked double curve ref.0283F.


  Well, i have to be honest, the CBR doesn't work as good as i would have expected. It has two problems that i didn't saw when i bought it. Explication:

- I bought this bike during a hot summer, i was far from thinking that i could have problem once autumn arrived... It's a specific problem which occur only when it's cold outside. Once we are under 15°C ambiant temperature and cold engine, it start well but idle tend go to 500rpm after only 5 secondes running. I need to maintain the throttle and engine speed between 1500 and 2500rpm during 10 to 20 secondes every morning before the engine run itself at this speed. It sucks, especially in winter.

- Secondo, over 4000rpm, nothing to say about the engine, it runs good, hard pull, happy with it. But under this cape there is a problem. I feel some nasty jolts at stabilized speed. I've read forums and find that to solve this problem, you just need to remove lambda sensor. Just replace it by a lambda eliminator (a 4Watts and 330 Ohms resistor plugged between "black/white" and "black/green" wires). Evironnement laws cause this unwanted pain... Just have to buy an bolt this to solve the problem. Sorry for the planet...


Since this mod, i'm alive again, i'm not forced to ride at 120km/h minimum in six gear. Cost of the operation: 20€ and 10minutes of work.




Total of the kilometers traveled for 2015 : 9714km.
Total of the kilometers traveled since i bought it : 13937km.
Total of the kilometers on odometer on 12/31/15: 61654km.

birdfire©2014-2022 for all the pictures and documents conserning my CBR.